27/01/2019
Part 2: Feeding Orphaned Piglets
Orphaned piglets are born from many unfortunate circumstances. While it can be a daunting task to raise a litter of piglets or even a single neonatal pig, the time commitment can certainly lead to rewarding outcomes. Rearing orphaned piglets is similar to the old adage, “There are 100 ways to skin a cat.” As gross as that may sound, it rings true for raising baby pigs. If there was one scientifically proven, wildly successful or foolproof way to do it, we would all be doing it. My new mantra is, “There are 100 ways to raise an orphaned piglet.” Ah, that is better.
Once you have determined that a piglet is at risk, make every effort to manage colostral intake, establishing passive transfer for his best chance of survival. Once the passive transfer process is complete, the real work begins: scheduling round-the-clock care and unglorified middle of the night feedings, washing countless pans and bottles, and cleaning up the little bio messes.
Finding a swine specific milk replacer to follow colostrum intake is optimal. However, lamb and kid replacers are good substitutes and often more readily available on retail shelves if needed in a pinch. Benefits of either lamb or kid milk replacer over cow milk replacers typically include a higher fat content and often a higher protein level. According to the University of Illinois Extension, the total solids of sow milk may range from 17 to 25 %. For example, a milk replacer with 20% solids will contain 80% water content. Cow milk is thinner with less than 13% solids, equating to an 87% water content.
The goal to feeding a milk replacer is to deliver the right ratio of solids to water in order to give the piglets the proper level of energy without compromising hydration status. Making the milk too dilute can result in inadequacies in energy intake, while making it too concentrated can result in dehydration leading to abdominal discomfort and constipation. Since milk replacers are all formulated a little differently, it is difficult to create a one-size-fits-all mixing instructions for neonatal pigs. Even more of a challenge exists when using a product intended for a different species. Following the mixing instructions on the bag is a good place to start. However, because piglets frequently become constipated, it is essential to monitor their fecal and urine output, in order to pick up essential clues to hydration status. It can be difficult to monitor output with straw or shavings used as bedding. White, or lightly colored towels can help to quantify urine and qualify fecal output; disposable puppy pads work as well. If off target, small, incremental adjustments can be made quickly.
Consider providing a more dilute milk product to increase hydration if any signs of dehydration occur:
- the urine is noticeably yellow and has a distinct odor
- feces are small, scant or pelleted
- straining to defecate
- absence of fecal material
The following is an example of directions to prepare a commercial milk replacer along with an example to increase the dilution to improve hydration status.
Original directions:
Mix 2 scoops (provided) of powder with 2 cups (16 ounces) of 120⁰ water.
A 10% dilution adjustment can be obtained by adding more water:
Adjustment: mix 2 scoops of powder with 2 ¼ cups (18 ounces) to 120⁰ water.
Consider providing a more concentrated milk product if:
- The urine is noticeably dilute and has little to no odor.
- Volume of urination is greater than normal and frequency > 3-4 times between feedings.
- Along with a dilute urine, intervals between feedings may be decreasing as energy needs are increasing.
- Along with a dilute urine, signs of lethargy or weakness may occur between feedings as energy needs are not being met.
Make enough milk replacer to last 8 to 12 hours; larger batches are more accurately measured, creating a consistent concentration among feedings. Keep unused portions in the refrigerator, mix well and reheat only the servings needed for the current feeding by placing in warm water to bring the temperature up to 100⁰. Start with one ounce per feeding and allow the piglet to determine how quickly the volume increases; remembering that it only takes 15 to 30 seconds to fill his stomach. The first 24 hours will be the busiest with a ravenous piglet every 1.5 to 2 hours. As the first week progresses, the volume ingested at each feeding should jump up to 3, 4 or even 5mL per feeding as the time between feedings quickly lengthens. By the end of the first week, expect the piglets to sleep 4 hours between feedings during the day; providing a dark environment at night (red heat lamps are fine) should afford up to 6 hours of needed slumber. Most orphaned piglets in our practice are drinking between 9 and 12 fluid ounces per feeding 4 to 6 times per day by three weeks of age. Results will vary.
Vigorous piglets are usually happy to drink out of a shallow pan, which saves time and facilitates one person being able to feed a whole litter quickly. Tapping a little bit of warm milk from the pan on to their nose can stimulate interest. Often, the orphan is simply so hungry when the feeding program begins, pan-fed milk gets caught in a little pig tornado as a furious search for food rains a thousand milk droplets over the feeder and the piglet. In this case a bottle can be used to target the milk into the mouth. In the case where a piglet turns his nose up, literally, to milk in a pan, a bottle can also be used.
There is an art to bottle feeding in order to reduce the incidence of aspiration of milk: cut a very small hole in the nipple to keep the flow minimized and hold the bottle as level as possible to reduce pressure that can speed the flow. Piglets usually hold their breath while nursing; quickly pull the bottle when his suckle slows or stops as he prepares to take a big breath, reducing the chances of milk being inadvertently drawn into the lungs. Avoid using a bottle on weak piglets with a poor suckle response. I find the red lamb nipples to be more than adequate when attached to a regulation lamb bottle; the measurements down the side are extremely useful in monitoring individual pig intakes. These nipples can also be screwed onto a plastic water or soda bottle. Puppy nursing bottles work as well.
Happening upon a listless piglet, drawn up in the belly and flank area, requires immediate attention. Use a medicine dropper and a lot of patience to feed a quiet piglet as he may be slow to swallow. Frequent feedings of ¼ to ½ ounce (7.5 to 15 mL) may help him to regain strength fairly quickly. Do not wait until the piglet is listless again before feeding; simply offer him food every 1.5 to 2 hours while attempting to increase the volume at each encounter. If a listless pig does not respond to food and warmth within 10 or 15 minutes, consult your veterinarian.
Along with proper feeding, it's essential that newborn piglets stay warm and dry. For their first two weeks of life, piglets are inefficient at thermoregulation (producing and maintaining body heat). The newborn should be kept in a draft-free environment at 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Give the piglets a varied zone of heat with the opportunity to close in for more heat or migrate away if it gets too warm. Two safety heat lamps, starting 12 to 18 inches above their backs while standing will give the piglet or a whole litter room to spread out and avoid piling (a sign they are too cold). A second heat lamp is a good insurance policy against a burned out heat lamp bulb (keep a spare on hand). The larger live-stock heating pads are very helpful; avoid human heating pads that can provide too much heat, often climbing to over 120⁰, even at the lowest setting.
An iron supplement should be given on day two or three to replace iron that a pig would normally pick up through rooting in the soil. A phase 1, pre-starter or starter ration should be offered by the 10th day. Pigs can be enticed to eat the dry feed free-choice by sprinkling the powdered milk replacer evenly over the top or making a mash with prepared milk replacer. Piglets should be ready to wean by 28 days, weighing 12 to 15 pounds.
About the Author
Dr. Colleen Lewis is a 1996 graduate of Kansas State University, College of Veterinary Medicine. Her career has taken her to many places as a practice owner, consultant, embryologist, and mentor. She enjoys mixed animal practice, teaching, traveling, farming and high school sports with her husband, Andrew and their three boys.
